I have recently become inspired by a shoe designer in Spain by the name of Francis Moleon.  He not only holds years of experience in shoe design but is extremely passionate and dedicated to his craft. While having led the design department for various international companies including Kenzo Paris, he has now decided to take on the endeavor of presenting his first collection of shoes and handbags as creative director of his own brand.

After seeing glimpses of his production process and previews of various designs to be included in his first collection, I decided to ask him a few questions to gain insight into his history as a designer and cultural influences which have been significant in his journey as a shoe maker and designer. I will soon follow this interview up with a personal review featuring my favorite designs.

Note: I have provided answers to my questions in English ans Spanish. The English version was edited by myself for my English speaking audience while the Spanish answers are directly in Francis’s native Spanish.

How did you decide to become a shoe designer and what was the first company you worked for?

A mixture of different experiences have influenced me.  I was born in Alicante on the south eastern coast of Spain and grew up in Elche nearby; home to many shoes factories. While my father worked in healthcare, he also was a partner in a shoe factory. Therefore, both my brother and I were exposed to the production and design process. During my university studies I studied management and marketing but also made the time to study footwear in Spain and Italy. Before this venture with my own collection, I have worked as the Director of Design and Brand Manager at companies including Havana Joe, Kenzo Paris, Karhu, Lola, Kelme, Fluxa and have been a part of other collaborations with top brands.

La decisión de ser diseñador de zapatos, es la suma de diferentes experiencias, además del entorno en el que he crecido.  He nacido en la ciudad de Alicante y me he criado en Elche, Elche es una ciudad zapatera, donde la industria del zapato es lo mas importante y donde hay grandes marcas que producen allí sus zapatos.
Mi padre trabajaba en Elche, hoy ya está jubilado, retirado de la vida laboral, el trabajaba en la medicina, pero también tenía junto a un socio una fábrica de calzado, por ello mi hermano y yo hemos crecido en este entorno, al salir del colegio pasábamos por la fábrica y de alguna forma, haciendo pequeñas tareas dentro de la fábrica vas aprendiendo a manejar las diferentes máquinas y fases que un zapato requiere.

How long has it taken to prepare this first collection?

For my first collection as creative director of my own line, I have dedicated 9 months to perfecting my designs from form to molds, materials, and internal engineering to create a shoe that is stylish but also resistant and comfortable.
All my shoes are being produced in Spain’s Elda city, often known as Spain’s shoe making capital, where brands including Stuart Weitzman are made. My limited collection will be produced within the next two months.

Esta primera colección personal, llevo trabajando en ella los últimos 9 meses y sigo siempre intentando perfeccionarla, estudiando el diseño de las formas, las hormas, los materiales, el interior del zapato, la ingeniería interna que dé comodidad y resistencia, quiero ofrecer mi estilo pero bien resuelto en el zapato.
Todos mis zapatos son diseñados y fabricados integramente en España concretamente en la ciudad de Elda, aquí se fabrican los zapatos de: Stuart Weitzman , y grandes marcas, ahora también Francis Moleón.

I notice that many designs I have seen from your photos feature traditional styles but with a mix of fabrics and materials from snakeskin to suede and patent leather. Are working with any fabrics or materials for your debut collection that you had not used in the past?

 I use raw materials of superior quality I have worked with before, applying worldwide trends but with my point of view to present designs that are simple and modern while functional.  I have studied the forms and how a shoe fits well on a woman’s foot and I want that will be an attribute that represents my brand. Many of my designs make use of leather skins mixed with vinyl. An emerging use of material on classic but refined designs.

Utilizo materias primas que he estudiado previamente, para que el resultado sea optimo, también intento que aplicar las tendencias actuales del mundo de la moda pero con mi particular punto de vista, los diseños de esta primera colección son sencillos, funcionales, pero son mi visión, quiero que el zapato cobre vida en el pie de la mujer y creo que lo he conseguido, mi calzado habla en el pie, tiene unas formas muy estudiadas que espero sean el ADN que reconozca mi marca mi estilo.

Utilizo como novedad la mezcla de productos en pieles con vinilos, así como los tejidos con diseños totalmente exclusivos, dando mucha importancia a que las diferentes materias primas usadas tengan una gran calidad.

Who is a designer or artist that has most inspired you as shoe designer?

I am inspired by fashion which is still alive in film and music from the 1950s through 1970s. Without mass-production of the big brands today, there was a different sense of style and elegance. I am less inspired by big brand names. My focus is on quality.

Como inspiración tengo el cine,la música, sobre todo el pasado años 50,60,70…me encanta ver como en aquella época en la que no había la masificación de las grandes cadenas de moda, se podía ver una elegancia que marcaba muchos los estilos, en el mundo del calzado hay grandes marcas en el día de hoy pero no fijo en ellas como inspiración, si me fijo en sus calidades o en su manera de hacer el marketing.

What are some of the challenges you have encountered so far in your new venture as a creative director for your own brand?
Well a big challenge, not surprising in this economy is being cost effective to produce a collection with quality raw materials, the best machinery, craftsmen but I am satisfied with the result and am grateful to have had help from great suppliers in the industry that have faith in my designs and vision.

Evidentemente el mayor reto es el financiero, realizar un muestrario de estas características con buenas materias primas y las mejores maquinarias, los mejores artesanos, tiene un coste muy alto, pero estoy muy satisfecho del resultado, también por mi gran experiencia en el sector y su reconocimiento he tenido la ayuda de algunos proveedores que han visto mi proyecto con buenos ojos.

Do you have a favorite design from this collection that you look forward to seeing on women?

Each design is special to me and is equally unique but the Anabel is a model I am particularly charmed with as it shines despite its simplicity. It is a leather heel of methacrylate.

Todos los diseños son hijos míos, por ello los quiero a todos por igual, pero hay una construcción que me encanta como luce por su absoluta sencillez, es un zapato de Piel Napa y un Exclusivo Tacón de metacrilato. Un modelo llamado Anabel

What do you think makes your collection unique and a desirable shoe for the modern woman?

My debut collection with be a small production presenting shoes with expert quality and craftsmanship 100% made in Spain. While fashionable, comfort is not sacrificed.

Mi colección tiene varias particularidades, 1 – Será una colección con una tirada corta y exclusiva, solo se van a fabricar de cada modelo y color 50 pares.  2 – Diseño y fabricación 100% Española  con la artesanía de las mejores manos expertas del mundo del calzado    3- Unas hormas con un estudio que haga el mejor look posible, pero con una comodidad perfecta. 

Will your first collection be available online or sold only at boutiques in Spain and Europe?

This first collection will be available via an online platform, boutiques in several countries throughout Europe, and exclusive personal orders.

La colección va estar disponible para poder comprar a través de plataforma on-line, actualmente estoy negociando esto, también en puntos de venta exclusivos, tiendas de varios países, al ser una colección exclusiva incluso estoy recibiendo algunos pedidos de clientes a través de mi facebook y mi blog personal.

Personally, my favorite designs which I look forward to are the snakeskin pumps and red suede ankle straps. Chic and classic while modern. Adventurous despite holding onto vintage influences and staying true to quality and craftsmanship that is so often sacrificed in a world that focuses on the label.

Images via Francis Moleon